By Ryan McGreal
Published February 23, 2007
(this article has been updated)
The folks at treehugger just reported that a company in The Netherlands has launched a new LED light, called the "Pharox", which generates as much light as a 40 watt bulb but uses only 3.4 watts.
A pack of four costs € 22.68. That's $8.63 Cdn per bulb.
Granted, that sounds like a lot of money, but as always with these matters, it's important to pay attention to the lifecycle costs, not just the initial capital cost. A three-way comparison between LEDs, compact fluorescent lights (CFL) and incandescent light bulbs (ILB) is in order.
Because LEDs and CFLs have a much longer lifespan than ILB, we need to calculate the lifetime costs of replacing the lights. Let's start with LEDs, which have the longest lifespan. Because the LED actually produces less light than the other two, I bumped the price up to an even $10 for the sake of comparison.
LED: lasts 60,000 hours. At $10.00 per light, it costs $10 for 60,000 hours.
CFL: lasts 10,000 hours. At $10.00 per light, it costs $60 for 60,000 hours.
ILB: lasts 1,000 hours. At $0.50 per light, it costs $30 for 60,000 hours.
So far, LEDs are ahead. However, we also have to calculate the lifetime energy costs of operating the lights.
For the sake of this example, I used $0.10 per kilowatt-hour. Bear in mind that over the next twenty years, that price is ridiculously optimistic; we will more likely be paying at least triple that price, either directly in our hydro bills or indirectly through tax subsidies.
Note: the featured LED is 3.4 watts but only produces light equivalent to a 40 watt bulb. For the sake of comparison, I calculated that an LED producing light equivalent to a 60 watt bulb would require 5.1 watts.
So:
LED: 5.1 watts * 60,000 hours = 306 kilowatt-hours. At 10 cents per kilowatt-hour, you'll pay $30.60 to run an LED for 60,000 hours.
CFL: 16 watts * 60,000 hours = 960 kilowatt-hours. At 10 cents per kilowatt-hour, you'll pay $96.00 to run CFLs for 60,000 hours.
ILB: 60 watts * 60,000 hours = 3600 kilowatt-hours. At 10 cents per kilowatt-hour, you'll pay a whopping $360.00 to run incandescent bulbs for 60,000 hours.
Now we can add up the purchase price and usage price for each light over 60,000 hours to get the total price.
| Light | Purchase Price | Usage Price | Total |
|---|---|---|---|
| LED | $10.00 | $30.60 | $40.60 |
| CFL | $60.00 | $96.00 | $156.00 |
| ILB | $30.00 | $360.00 | $390.00 |
Over the 60,000 hour life of an LED light, you'll save $115.40 compared to CFL, and $349.40 compared to ILB. Hmmm, tough decision.
Update: A reader noticed that my summary table erroneously listed the total purchase costs of a CFL as $10 instead of $60. I've corrected this. Thanks for pointing it out! - R.
Update 2: A few commenters have suggested that $10 per CFL is too much money. The last time I bought CFLs was a couple of years ago and they were that much back then. For the sake of argument, I re-calculated the Cost Comparison based on $3 per CFL. Replace six times, that works out to $18.
| Light | Purchase Price | Usage Price | Total |
|---|---|---|---|
| LED | $10.00 | $30.60 | $40.60 |
| CFL | $18.00 | $96.00 | $114.00 |
| ILB | $30.00 | $360.00 | $390.00 |
As you can see, at $114 total cost, CFL is still considerably more expensive.
By Ted Mitchell (registered)
Posted February 23, 2007 12:33:34
Good analysis! But many raise the issue of the quality of light produced.
Basic incandescent light bulbs are pretty bad for CRI (color rendering index). This is a 0-100 scale where 0 is black and white and 100 is the quality of color produced by noon sunlight. Some people wrongly list all incandescents as "100" because their radiation is of the "blackbody" variety. At a much lower temp than sunlight a much redder spectrum is produced. Typical cheap ILB's rate about CRI 80 (they are very yellow).
Much better is the neodymium glass bulb (e.g. GE Reveal). This is a typical IDL filament perhaps burning slightly hotter (shorter life), with different glass around it. There is no sign of yellow light, it appears white. The CRI is 90+. If you haven't tried one, do it.
4 foot flourescent tubes have both a color temperature and CRI rating. E.g. 2800K means this is approximately the color of a filament at this temperature (fairly red light). 5000K is like typical sunlight. 6500K is equatorial noon sunlight (will look very bluish is the brightness is less than sunlight), etc.
CRI is typically 70 or less for "cool white" which is also 4100K. STAY AWAY FROM THIS CRAP. Most people have no idea that these are obsolete.
The T12 "cool white" can be replaced directly with a T8 3500K CRI 85 bulb (called "835": 8 is the CRI decade, 35 is for 3500K) which is actually the same $2 price, but even MORE efficient and has better color rendering than a typical IDL.
The best CRI you can get easily is the "sunlight" bulb, either a T12 5000K CRI 90 or the better T8 5000K CRI 95, both about $6. These use expensive phosphors that are also slightly less efficient than the 8 series (CRI in the mid 80's)
CFL's do not have these numbers listed or even available. So maybe they might be 2800K and CRI 82 like a typical IDL, or maybe something much worse. Probably not better though, even though this is well within current technology.
LED, who knows? Certainly the LED flashlights I have are quite bluish and likely poorly rated for CRI. But there is certianly a lot of potential there.
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By sewiv (anonymous)
Posted February 23, 2007 14:16:26
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By Spiff (anonymous)
Posted February 23, 2007 16:23:43
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By gerryscat (anonymous)
Posted February 23, 2007 17:07:07
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By Number33 (anonymous)
Posted February 23, 2007 17:25:33
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By gwb (anonymous)
Posted February 23, 2007 18:26:11
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By kenmce (anonymous)
Posted February 24, 2007 16:18:09
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By Ted Mitchell (registered)
Posted February 25, 2007 17:21:14
question for number33 or anyone - why do manufacturers not list CFL color temp or CRI when this info is easily available for straight tubes?
i've tried websites and emails to no avail.
no wonder that many people are disappointed with CFLs when they have no idea what they are buying.
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By CFL - LED (anonymous)
Posted February 26, 2007 09:19:57
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By dendubs (anonymous)
Posted April 11, 2007 14:02:06
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By Remi (anonymous)
Posted May 10, 2007 00:07:16
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By scobb (anonymous)
Posted May 17, 2007 17:56:25
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By kunle (registered)
Posted May 22, 2007 04:09:08
Pls can anyone in help compute the amount of Lumen that a flourescent light produces as the same as amount of lumen of Kerosene lamp. or what is the Lumen of Kerosene lamp. thanks kunle
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By Sarah (anonymous)
Posted June 27, 2007 10:18:27
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By Alex (anonymous)
Posted July 23, 2007 12:11:27
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By mickrussom (anonymous)
Posted July 24, 2007 00:56:36
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By seancb (registered) - website
Posted July 24, 2007 14:12:06
CF as with all hazardous materials should be disposed of correctly. It would be beneficial to have a municipal program for regular collection of batteries, bulbs and other hazardous goods -- if it's not convenient, people won't do it. CF and other hazards ending up in the trash is purely a result of laziness.
Mick, I'd be interested to have a peek at the products and services you surround yourself with. There are so many hazardous chemicals used in manufacturing so many things that is impossible to live completely impact-free. If everyone burned candles for light, we'd be no better off (albeit the issues would be different than with CF).
I hate to break it to you, but by being humans we are by definition "murderers" in that we consume resources and create waste -- we have no choice but to cause a detriment to SOME creature SOMEwhere. So we have to choose our battles. Do you have an alternative to CF that you can suggest?
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By mickrussom (anonymous)
Posted July 28, 2007 17:31:05
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By Prince (registered) - website
Posted December 21, 2007 04:55:31
I fabricated a LED unit using 144 LEDs and that gives out a good powerful light more than 60W bulb I think. It cost around US$20 for the lot. Here in India, and uses 12W of current. As someone else said its a focussed light. I have used it in my marine fish tank, But I think I should get one more fabricated to provide suffcient light. ts cheaper than using Metal Halide 150W and cheaper to use at 12W. Although they say that the pure white LED provides 8000-10000 Kelvin I'm not too sure. The MH gives me 12000K and thats the way to go for a marine fish tank. I wouldn't consider the expense for other applications as there is no comparison in initial cost.
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By calsolar (anonymous)
Posted January 25, 2008 20:02:49
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Posted July 26, 2008 12:45:50
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Posted July 26, 2008 13:34:46
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Posted October 05, 2008 11:41:14
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Posted October 16, 2009 07:21:48
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Posted May 29, 2010 13:47:46
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Posted February 23, 2007 12:16:03
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